There are simple solutions to most of the problems that cause cats to avoid using their litter boxes.
There are a number of reasons why cats go outside the box, and contrary to popular belief, spite or revenge isn’t one of them. While it is commonly believed that cats go on the floor or the furniture to punish their owners, people make this assumption because humans are inclined to behave out of spite.
A cat may go in the wrong place due to anxiety over the behavior of his humans, but this is very different from doing so as an act of revenge, and punishment is unlikely to change the behaviour. Instead, it will just increase the anxiety that caused the inappropriate behavior in the first place.
Medical Problems
If a cat is regularly going outside the box, he should be taken to the vet to rule out medical problems such as a urinary tract infection before looking for other possible causes. Declawing can also cause litter box problems, as the pain experienced by declawed cats makes many of them unable to dig in kitty litter.
Problems with the Litter Box
Many cats object to certain types of litter boxes, or to specific box locations. Some of the most common litter box problems are:
Some cats don’t like using a covered litter box – taking the roof off the box will fix the problem.
The box is in a noisy, high-traffic area – move the box to a quieter, out-of-the-way place. Even a noisy appliance can frighten a cat away from the litter box.
The box has been bleached – while the box should be washed with dish soap and hot water, bleach should not be used as it removes all traces of scent, and thus the signal that the box is the appropriate place to go.
The box is too small – if the cat will not use the box or scratches the area around the box, the litter box may be too small. The larger the litter box, the less likely it is that a cat will go outside the box.
The box has been moved to an area the cat dislikes – moving the box back to the original location will solve the problem.
The cat does not like to urinate and defecate in the same box – add a second box in another location.
The cat has a preference for going in a certain area of the house – the best solution is to move the box to the cat’s preferred area (you can always move it back later, two or three inches per day, once the bad habit is broken). If you cannot move the litter box, after cleaning soiled area thoroughly, make it unappealing by covering it in tinfoil or upside-down plastic carpet runner (pointy side up). Putting the cat’s food and water bowls in the area can also solve the problem, as cats do not like to go where they eat. Maintain these deterrents for at least 30 days after the cat has resumed using the litter box.
Problems with the Kitty Litter
The most common problem is that the kitty litter is not clean. Using clumping litter and scooping every day, changing the litter more often and washing the box when the litter is changed should prevent this problem. When cats urinate or defecate near the box rather than in it, the cleanliness of the box is usually the problem. Other common problems are:
The litter is not deep enough – add more litter (until at least 3 inches deep).
The litter is too deep – while most cats prefer more litter, some cats dislike having too much. One way to test whether this is the problem is to make the litter deeper on one side of the box than the other and see which side the cat chooses.
The cat does not like the brand of litter – trying a different brand can eliminate this problem. Most cats prefer clumping fine-grained litter (though clumping litter should not be used for kittens under 4 months old as they may suffer adverse health consequences from inhaling the particles).
The brand of litter has recently been changed –reverting to the original brand should solve the problem.
The litter is scented – cats dislike perfumes and deodorants.
Litter clings to the fur on a long-haired cat’s legs or paws, making the cat not want to enter the box – trim fur in the areas where litter tends to stick.
The cat prefers to go on soft surfaces such as carpet or cloth – try a kitty litter with very small gravel.
The cat prefers smooth hard surfaces such as tile or porcelain – move the litter box to a hard floor and add a just a thin layer of litter at one end, leaving the other end empty.
The cat is used to going outdoors – put some sod or soil on top of the kitty litter.
Psychological Issues
If you have ruled out medical problems and problems with the cat litter and the box, your cat may have developed a bad association with the litter box due to trauma experienced while using it, or may be going in other places due to generalized fear or anxiety.
Preventing a Relapse
Once you have broken bad litter box habits, previously soiled areas must be thoroughly cleaned. If certain areas of the house smell like urine because the cat (or another animal) has urinated or sprayed there, the cat will be more likely to use that spot. Thoroughly cleaning the area with an enzymatic cleanser (available at most pet supply stores) will help. Steam cleaning without pre-cleaning the area will lock the odor in, so it is important to use the enzymatic cleaner first.
The copyright of the article Solving Litter Box Problems in Cat Training is owned by Jennifer Copley. Permission to republish Solving Litter Box Problems in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
